Monday, September 7, 2009

True Luxury is Not Something that Shines but Something that Lasts

What is still important to the rich Russians is the security and the acknowledgement of their luxury that was achieved relatively recently – somewhere in the 1990s. They long for the authentic, 100% luxury, there is no doubt about that.


Uskov, Editor-in-chief of GQ Russia, who is considered the icon of the rich and glamorous lifestyle in Russia, proves this point: “Luxury is a statement of personal success in Russia and Russians love status symbols. Russian money is mainly new money, but the ultimate dream is to look like old money.”

Hence, there are three main reasons why anyone would spend extravagant money on a pair of sunglasses or a watch in the midst of a recession. They are: brand, inherent cost of materials and craftsmanship. The show-off period of the new Russian money is over. Now they are looking for the qualities of the old.
Fewer people are looking now for clothes with conspicuous luxury brand logos. They look for watches that can be inherited by their grandchildren.

This is also supported by the trend to buy classical books in quality editions. Publishers note that less of low-grade pulp fiction is consumed this year. Rich people are interested in collecting libraries of classic literature in expensive editions.

Therefore, moderation is in for the top consumers in Russia. It is now considered very improper and so-last-season for your appearance to scream “Luxury”. One rich girl told us:
“In this economy it is so improper to wear too many diamonds. It is more important now to look fresh and groomed: tanned skin, beautiful hair, perfect nails. These are the best class indicators today. The point is that you have to have sufficient money and time for this. And yet it’s more affordable than diamonds.”

The rising trend in beauty care is lead by no other person but the current girlfriend of Roman Abramovich (who actually lost a staggering amount of money on the London Stock Exchange within just six months as Evraz's value plummeted from €28 billion to just €3.2 billion) – Daria Zhukova. Dasha claims that “the real it-girl unlike others can combine a Chanel handbag with Converse sneakers, and wears a simple white t-shirt as if it was haute couture. And this she proves by selling simple white t-shirts from her own clothing line for some 50 dollars.

The beauty care trend has reversed from subjecting your skin to some heavy duty treatment with conspicuous flashy make-up and heavy salon-tanning to investing significant money in skin-care. Now the proper way is to invest a lot of resources in beauty care to maintain your natural look. Combining luxury accessories with a simple white t-shirt, accompanied with simple but well-kept hair, skin with zero or invisible make-up, but shining with its natural, healthy look – this can take some serious time and money investments, although so far only people in the know will understand how expensive it can be.


“Buying pendants for your mobile phone for 500 Euro is so irrelevant now. It is a symbol of bad taste and makes you look odd and stupid.” Olga, 26

Insight: There is a yearning for a certain kind of sustainability in luxury. Something that cannot be taken away with a credit crunch. Something that will always indicate your social status. (Even if you have 40 Euro in your pocket, you still have Breguet on your wrist and your skin is shining with wealth.)


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